I was unlucky…. but also very fortunate.
With a long-time climbing partner we planned to lead a group to the summit of Rainier during the July 4th weekend via the infamous Disappointment Clever route. We had done the route together 5 times before (this was to be his 99th summit).
Early Saturday morning we roped up in to two teams at Camp Muir. We passed through Cathedral Gap and then through Ingram Flats. On the traverse to the base of the Disappointment Cleaver we passed a rope team that was resting on their packs. Knowing that this area is prone to rock falls we were proceeding at a good pace but not good enough…..
At about~3:30- 4:00 AM a rock fall occurred below the Disappointment Clever and just above where we were moving through. A rock hit my face just above my lip and under my nose. The impact knocked me out cold (for ~ 4-5 minutes) and I slid about 30 feet down the hill into a shallow crevasse. Another person on the rope team I was leading was also hit by a separate rock that required a couple of stitches. Thankfully, there were no other injuries. The photo below shows the approximate area of where it occured (Photo taken last year from Ingram Flats).
I ended up about 4 feet inside the crevasse face-first upside down but was able to climb out once I regained (relative) consciousness. Yes, I was wearing a helmet and was roped. The rock left a 3-inch gash above my lip and four of my front teeth are knocked out and 5 others are cracked/broken/rotated/loose. I failed the initial cognitive tests given to me by the leader of the climb (who is an EMT formerly with Mountain Rescue) but passed subsequent tests. We immediately left the area as it is a well known rock slide/fall area.
We egressed to Ingram Flats where first aid was given to me before we decided to hike out as I was getting cold and possibly starting to go into shock. I was able to walk about 1 1/2 hours back to Camp Muir and there an EMT National Park Ranger and an EMT from Rainier Mountaineering triaged my injuries and coordinated a medical airlift. The airlift was made as there were concerns about head trauma since I was unconscious for 4-5 minutes. Once at Harbrorview a trauma team of approximately 7 doctors and technicians descended on me and I was given a (relatively) clean bill of health.
X-rays and CT scans showed no major bone breaks, internal bleeding or head trauma. My upper maxilla (bone that holds in your teeth) on the outside is now missing (along with my 4 of my upper teeth – both primary incisors, my right side secondary incisor and my right side first bicuspid. My right side canine was rotated 90 degrees and has been shoved back 3-4 mm) and my upper inner maxilla is also broken/pushed in by the trauma. This explains the several loose teeth (my remaining left secondary incisor and both canines). On the lower side, the right primary and secondary incisors and the right canine are chipped and loose – but holding on. On My jaw is not broken. The 3-inch gash was clean through to the inside of my mouth and required about 100-75 stitches to close. My face was pretty abraded from sliding ~30 feet down hill. I was released that evening from the trauma center.
The care I received by both the EMTs at Camp Muir and by the trauma center at HarborView was first class. Here's what I looked like last week....
Now that things have settled down…..
I’m on a liquid diet for at least 1 month as the bones in my mouth need to stabilize. Plates/wiring were discounted since there is too much trauma to the bones and the idea is to let them mend first. Reconstructive options (implants/bone grafts etc.) are at least 4, possibly 5 months away.
The facial abrasion are all gone (no scars) and the stitches are healing pretty good.
Despite all this, I still consider myself a lucky man.
